STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. -- Over the decade, we’ve gained many restaurants. We’ve lost a few -- and a few rather good ones, at that. For someone who has worked in the industry and has subsequently come to write about it, the ebb and flow is a fascinating, certainly humbling subject on which to reflect.
But in order to remember the most memorable closures, let’s start with restaurants that have memorable addresses.
And the award for the “Greatest Revolving Restaurant Location” goes to 747 Forest Ave. in West Brighton, with six renditions thus far since its former life as Hoefig Plumbing Supply. In a strange twist of irony ending a run of dead restaurants, the location will soon be a funeral parlor.
Just to recap on “747″ with quite a bit of renovation and investment in between each gig: It was Italian Heart Cafe in 2001. French-themed Port of Marseille operated there from 2004 to 2007. And then the building lay vacant after that closure for five years. Suddenly, it rallied as 747 Steak House and then again as Broadway Mike’s, also a steakhouse. In 2015 we experienced Randazzo’s at “747” until it went dark just weeks before the Forest Avenue St. Patrick’s Day Parade of 2017. And the last restaurant to occupy the space was seafood and Peruvian-themed Casa Franco, which opened grandly on June 23, 2017, and closed in late 2018.
Next on locations that take us up and down Memory Lane -- 35 Androvette St. As Killmeyer’s Old Bavaria Inn proprietor Ken Tirado reminds, “It was the Black Garter, then the Charleston Inn. And the Charleston Inn still had the stripper poll behind the bar."
Said Tirado of those days when it rolled like “Porky’s,” the movie: “That place survived for so many years because it was so far off the beaten track you couldn’t get caught.”
Its subsequent vamps with vittles saw three eateries over the last decade starting in 2009 with Hoof 'N Finz, a steak and fish house concept with pizza. Eventually, DaddyO’s BBQ set up shop on Androvette, a seemingly good fit with an outdoor smoker to strike a wood-smoke scented backdrop. A year after that closure came Chef Mike’s Rodizio Grill, an all-you-can-eat Argentinian concept that opened in 2017 and bowed out this year. Chef Mike now heads the kitchen at newly opened Love Earth Cafe in Richmond Valley.
Tirado also pointed to Al’s Pizza at 965 Jewett Ave. in Meiers Corners as a big loss in the food world. The spot started in 1954, a stalwart among the pie-makers on the North Shore along with Joe & Pat’s and Pal Joey’s. It became Pi Pizzeria about five years ago and shut earlier this year, thus ending its pizza run for the moment.
The announcement of a closing day at Gennaro’s was a stunner in 2017. Like Schaffer’s Tavern did this very year in Meiers Corners, Gennaro’s went out with a blaze of traditions and New Dorp neighborhood glory. It will be replaced by Bravo Pizza.
Gennaro’s had roots at the corner of New Dorp Lane and Hylan Boulevard going back to 1969. The business, known back then for its red and white, rounded tent architecture, was originally called Pizza Clown. Jerry and his wife, Maria, bought the business, which became Pizza Town USA. (The Gennaro’s in Rab’s Country Lanes is still open.)
And that brings us to Juicy Lucy’s current spot, the former Joe & John Toto’s of Ocean Breeze, which closed last year when John Toto retired after decades of horseshoe leagues and food service for Staten Island. We also lost Cafe Del Mondo, King’s Pizzeria after a 39-year run, and the journey of Perkin’s from its closed spot in Graniteville (still vacant) to its revival as a 24-hour Denny’s in Eltingville.
We’ve seen the demise of Cargo Cafe and its revival as 120 Bay Cafe which reclaimed its former moniker after Staten Islanders continued to call it simply -- “Cargo.”
Cargo Cafe on Bay Street was closed by the city's Department of Health after inspectors counted 85 points in violations on March 18, 2011. (Staten Island Advance/Virginia N. Sherry)
In big news: Carol’s Cuisine of Dongan Hills closed its cooking school and upscale eatery when owner Carol Frazzetta retired in 2016. After a brief vacancy it evolved into a sit-down Polish restaurant Chris’ (another excellent spot at this location), which closed earlier this fall.
One rule remains true on Staten Island: Restaurants typically beget restaurants.
While we’ve lost Spain in Westerleigh a newly constructed building for an eatery is in the works, more on that in 2020. Afternoone’s under two separate owners in West Brighton went dark, although a thriving Kettle Black took its place. Armory Inn gave way to Pepperjack Grill and now The Local in Castleton Corners with Chef Mike Cappucci in the kitchen.
Cappucci closed his own restaurant Trends in Great Kills due to a loss in the family.
Hurricane Sandy left behind a major dent in the food business on the South Shore and East Shore between temporary and permanent closures. An entire restaurant, Puglia by the Sea, formerly Carmen’s, washed out to sea as did Rockaway Cove in Tottenville. Ni-Ni’s took a hit back then as well, but survived, rallied and found its stride once again in New Dorp Beach. It closed its doors this past year after 33 years.
Over the decade, Restaurant 101 turned into Nove which is now Campania, and Nucci’s of West Brighton transitioned into Project Brunch. Toto’s of Tottenville yielded to DaNico’s of Mulberry Street, now DeLuca’s Italian restaurant. R.H. Tugs was overhauled to give us Blue, a beautiful addition to our seaside restaurant inventory. And the remnants of Tugs can be seen at The Veranda, added to the Silver Lake golf course’s dining room with its pulley-driven fan system.
Think national brands are safe from bitter endings on Staten Island?
Absolutely not, as we have said good-bye to three Jimmy John’s in almost a year. That was 2016, the same year we lost McDonald’s in New Springville after a 20-year run. In 2014, we saw Bonefish Grill suddenly sink. A year later a Wendy’s in New Dorp (now a bank) ceased operations after 16 years. And just this year, Charlie Browns, Red Robin and T.G.I. Friday’s skedaddled from the supping scene.
Business obituaries are difficult to write, as the story doesn’t just end with the announcement of final days of service. Like bereavement in a death, there are the stages of grief that one goes through from a loss of job to the whole process of closing down. And among the most heart-wrenching events this decade were seeing restaurant auctions where owners’ investments of equipment and wares ultimately sold for pennies on the dollar. But that’s the price of risk in the food industry -- you either make it or you don’t.
CATCH UP ON MORE RESTAURANT STORIES BY PAMELA SILVESTRI
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https://www.silive.com/entertainment/2019/12/staten-island-restaurants-weve-lost-over-the-last-decade.html 2019-12-26 11:00:00Z
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