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Pork sauce-piquante wrapped in zucchini with gnocchi alla romana from Cookhouse Restaurant.
Photo: Mike Sutter /StaffPork sauce-piquante wrapped in zucchini with gnocchi alla romana from Cookhouse Restaurant.
Pork sauce-piquante wrapped in zucchini with gnocchi alla romana from Cookhouse Restaurant.
Pork sauce-piquante wrapped in zucchini with gnocchi alla romana from Cookhouse Restaurant.
Note: This is an abbreviated version of the full Taste Test review, with a star rating based on multiple visits. See the complete version on our subscriber site ExpressNews.com.
Too much of my New Orleans food exposure has played out like discordant jazz: They’re making it up as they go along, and most of it’s not very good. After a couple of Friday nights at Cookhouse Restaurant with chef Pieter Sypesteyn’s soulful cooking and Jim Cullum’s fluid jazz quartet, I’m willing to reconsider both.
With Cookhouse, he takes Cajun and Creole food on improvisatory runs that make them fresh and new. Etouffee’s classic rice-and-whatever formula got a fresh makeover with firm bites of alligator in a deep tomato roux with a trio of shrimp.
Jambalaya stayed true to the rhythms of rice and spice. Cookhouse’s celebrated New Orleans barbecue shrimp showcased those big, beautiful beasts in full antennaed glory in a broth with red spices, garlic and beer that should’ve come with a straw.
Well-played notes like that define Cookhouse, certainly the best New Orleans band in the city.
To read the full review, please visit our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com.
Mike Sutter is a food and drink reporter and restaurant critic in the San Antonio and Bexar County area. Read more of his stories on our free site, mySA.com, and on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com. | msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking | Instagram: @fedmanwalking
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