Anthony Andiario was already a big deal talent before he left Phoenix, where he worked in Neapolitan pizza legend Chris Bianco’s orbit as the opening chef of Tratto. Since returning to Pennsylvania with his girlfriend and partner Maria van Schaijik to launch his self-named restaurant in West Chester, where, perhaps, many Philadelphians are not yet familiar with his name, he’s acclimated swiftly by diving deep into the spirit of his new landscape. Sourcing from farmers and foragers, even harvesting the cherry blossoms out their front door, he’s created a distinct menu that’s not exactly Italian so much as a rustic open-hearth expression of regional bounty, from fire-roasted pork rubbed with the tangy powder of local white fir, to Birchrun Hills Farm veal carpaccio scattered with pickled chanterelles and luscious summer blueberries. There’s also an evolving series of extraordinary pastas, including a plate of ricotta-filled casoncelli with wild black trumpets that, months later, I can still taste. Andiario’s impressive first run of cooking through a year in the Mid-Atlantic — curing, canning, dehydrating and preserving along the way —- bodes well for many rewarding seasons to come. Andiario, 106 W. Gay St., West Chester, 484-887-0919; www.andiario.com
http://www.philly.com/food/craig-laban-best-philadelphia-chef-restaurant-20181227.html 2018-12-27 10:02:59Z
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