If anyone had faith that across the river New Albany would grow to be a dining destination in and of itself, it was restaurateurs Ian and Nikki Hall.
Their first project, The Exchange Pub + Kitchen, is an area staple and it didn’t take long for their steak house concept, Brooklyn and the Butcher, to make an upscale mark on the growing downtown district.
Their New Albany roots grew that much deeper last summer with the opening of Longboard’s Taco & Tiki — and the city is all the better for it.
Striking a more casual note than their previous endeavors, this taco driven restaurant offers a family-friendly environment with colorful cocktails and a menu packed with nuance and flavor.
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Located at the corner of Pearl and East Market streets, Longboard’s isn’t overtly tiki in theme. Wide stripes painted in matte shades of navy and baby blue decorate the walls, popping thanks to yellow accents.
Black and white vintage photos of surfers offer a nod to the restaurant’s beach inspiration and large baskets serve as pendant lights hanging over the wood-paneled booths. The bulk of the tiki love is reserved for the lower level bar area, where the blue and yellow color scheme is enhanced with a bamboo framed bar with a grass top and playful wallpaper.
The tiki vibe is in full effect when it comes to the cocktails, which are served in colorful glassware with neon-hued twisty straws, tropical fruit garnishes and umbrellas. Our El Rollio drink ($9) came in a tall orange glass.
This jalapeno infused tequila concoction was highlighted by passion fruit and lime. The resulting beverage brought a pleasant heat to the palate and just the right dose of sweetness, an impressive balance considering the signature drinks at Longboard’s are batch made and served on draft.
The house margarita ($7) was also well-mixed for a cocktail made en masse, not the best I’ve ever had but most certainly not the worst.
Half of the food portion of the menu at Longboard’s is occupied by shareable starters and side plates, including the customary chips and queso ($4.50) and guacamole ($6.50). If you were to pick one plate from the bunch, however, I would advise you select the elote ($8.50).
Longboard’s take on this classic Mexican dish of grilled corn was one of the best bites of food I’ve had in some time. Served off the cob, roasted corn kernels are paired with crispy Brussels sprouts and smoky bacon and tossed over a jalapeno aioli which contributes the ideal amount of heat. Tortilla strips round things out with a satisfying crunch.
Crispy wonton strips play a similar role in the arugula and spinach bowl ($8). This jam-packed salad checks all the boxes with colorful carrots and radish, juicy apple and fresh cilantro leaves melding and contrasting with one another all at once.
The salmon we added over top ($5) was perfectly cooked and made the salad an ideal lunch any day of the week.
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A duo of tacos would also make for a fulfilling meal. The seven on offer include classics like al pastor ($3.95) alongside original compilations like the duck confit ($5.50), which combines sorghum glazed duck with spicy jalapeno aioli and cashews. A pickled vegetable slaw was also included, however, the pickle notes were somewhat muted and could have been taken a step further.
The flavors of the Korean BBQ taco ($4.95) were spot on. The grilled steak was tender and garnished with kimchi, cotija and, cleverly, apple.
Any taco shop worth its salt will have a fish taco on the menu and Longboard’s is no exception. While the grilled fish in the ancho chili mahi mahi taco ($4.95) was on the dry side, the flavors brought together by the chipotle aioli, pickled red onion and house tartar sauce ensured no crumbs were left behind.
With additional tacos, an order of the chilaquiles ($8.50) made with pork rinds and the yucca tots ($6.50), which were garnished with fried pickled onions, we weren’t sure we had room for dessert but are glad we went out on a limb for the house-made churro ($5).
Despite being slightly undercooked, the churros were light and airy, the miso caramel sea salt served alongside light on miso flavor but was the ideal antidote to the sweetness of the pastry’s sugary crust.
With friendly and efficient service and food more than worthy of a trip across the bridge, Longboard’s Taco & Tiki continues Ian and Nikki Hall’s tradition of bringing great food to this small but mighty river city.
Reach freelance restaurant critic Lindsey McClave at lindsey@foodie-girl.com.
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Longboard’s Taco & Tiki
Rating: 3.5 out of 4 stars
Address: 302 Pearl St., New Albany, Indiana
Telephone: 812-924-7510
Web: tacoandtiki.com
Cuisine: Mexican with a focus on tacos
Children’s Menu: Yes
Alcohol: Full bar with a focus on tiki inspired cocktails
Vegetarian: Several vegetarian options
Price Range: Inexpensive
Reservations: For parties of six or more
Credit Cards: Yes
Smoking: No
Access: First level of the restaurant is handicap accessible
Parking: Street Parking
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday
https://www.courier-journal.com/story/entertainment/dining/restaurant/2019/04/03/longboards-tiki-taco-restaurant-new-albany-indiana-review/3246574002/ 2019-04-03 12:49:00Z
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