The long wait is over.
Executive Chef and Owner Scott Varricchio has opened the doors to his celebrated seaside bistro after a kitchen fire closed the restaurant for more than a year. Colorfully printed on his menu are the words, “Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, we are pleased to present Citrus”.
Some things have changed and much remains the same. The name Citrus Grill House has slimmed down to just Citrus. The chic casual décor has been lightened and brightened and appointed beautifully with paintings and flowers. The menu, printed simply on a couple sheets of paper, changes with the seasons. Citrus cuisine, created from regionally grown and sourced produce, meats and seafood, is even better than before the fire. Even with the addition of sound minimizing features including a ceiling cloud, though, the chatter of so many diners still results in an elevated noise level inside. More windows have opened up beautiful views of the ocean while many wait in line for the coveted patio dining for the very best views.
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So how does a highly acclaimed chef spend a year without a restaurant? Chef Varricchio grabbed the opportunity to further develop his skills, engaging in culinary internships in Napa Valley and New York. He has returned to Vero Beach refreshed and inspired and the proof is in the pudding.
My husband, our guest and I started with spicy Moroccan hummus ($5) served with warm French bread. This is a spicier version than before and we relished the addition of Calabrian chili paste and feta.
Nothing says ‘fresh’ like the spring pea salad ($12). A mixture of snap peas, snow peas, English peas and pea tendrils was tossed with baby spinach, fried shaved coconut, brioche croutons, fried shallots and herbed red wine vinaigrette.
Then, on to the entrees, each one divine.
Although he was tempted by the $75 Japanese Wagyu steak with exotic mushrooms, my husband chose instead the amazingly tender and utterly delicious 12-ounce prime New York Strip steak ($42) with melting caramelized onion butter on top. This expertly seasoned steak was accompanied by a lovely mound of potato puree and a Carolina grilled sweet onion.
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In the mood for shrimp, our guest chose Rustichella capellini in a smooth, lively lemon cream sauce with Calabrian roasted shrimp ($25).
My choice, Virginia flounder ($34) was just outstanding, finished with lemon aioli, breadcrumbs, and served atop lemon-scented capellini. Baby heirloom tomatoes with red wine vinaigrette were alongside.
We shared one playful dessert, warm chocolate chip cookies served with milk ($6); and one traditional dessert, butterscotch pot de crème ($6).
Everything was beautifully presented and service was spot-on.
We extend a heartfelt welcome back to Citrus.
Citrus
Cuisine: American
Address: 1050 Easter Lily Lane, Vero Beach
Hours: 5 p.m. – Closing, Daily. Will soon be open for lunch.
Phone: (772) 234-4114
Website: www.citrusgrillhouse.com
https://www.tcpalm.com/story/entertainment/dining/2019/03/30/restaurant-review-citrus-vero-beach-back-and-better-than-ever/3320146002/ 2019-03-30 18:11:55Z
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