Oh, the irony: Just as so many of us have resolved to eat more vegetables, the produce selection at grocery stores and farmers markets shrinks up. But if you’re already sick of forking up beige-colored root vegetables, fear not! The Post talked to five cookbook authors, who shared their best tips for spinning tiresome winter offerings into healthy-dinner gold.
Say OK to OJ
“This has become one of my favorite ways to cook a vegetable,” chef Jeremy Fox writes in “On Vegetables: Modern Recipes for the Home Kitchen” (Phaidon Press). In the book, the Napa Valley-based Fox suggests taking thick (½ to ¾-inch) slices of daikon radish and braising them in strained, fresh orange juice on the stove in a pan over medium heat. Cook the hearty vegetable for 35 to 40 minutes, basting with the liquid occasionally. “The daikon absorbs some of the juice, and you can taste the citrus,” he says of the sweet and satisfying end result. The technique also works well with black radishes, kohlrabi and rutabaga, and you can experiment with using other citrus juices as well. “It’s fairly simple and hard to mess up,” says Fox.
Hasselback them!
“To make [root veggies] the real star of the show, I love to Hasselback them before roasting,” says Jamie Oliver, the celebrity chef and author of the new book “Ultimate Veg: Easy & Delicious Meals for Everyone” (Flatiron Books). The technique involves thinly slicing a vegetable not quite all the way through, and it’s named for the historic restaurant Hasselbacken in Stockholm, Sweden, where it was invented. It might seem intimidating, but Oliver says it’s actually fairly easy and versatile: He recommends trying it on carrots, parsnips, beets, squash and potatoes. He even offers up a trick — lay two wooden spoons facedown on a cutting board so that their handles are parallel to each other. Place a vegetable snugly between the two handles, then thinly slice the vegetable in ¼-inch intervals. The handles of the spoons will prevent your knife from being able to cut all the way through the base of the vegetables. Toss with good-quality olive oil and the seasoning of your choice, then roast. The vegetables will “look beautiful, you’ll get mega crispiness, and they’ll be brilliantly absorbent of flavor,” Oliver says.
Get saucy
One of the most beloved recipes from Joshua McFadden’s James Beard Award-winning cookbook, “Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables” (Artisan), is also the simplest. For “kale sauce with any noodle,” McFadden advises readers to make a pasta sauce by boiling a pound of kale in water for 5 minutes. While the kale is boiling, saute a couple smashed cloves of garlic in 1/4 cup olive oil until they turn light gold. Then process the cooked greens, the garlic-olive oil mixture and some salt in a blender to make a thick puree. You can cook your pasta in the same water used to cook the kale, and add a bit to loosen up the blend if needed. The flavorful, healthy mixture is great on plain noodles, or you can round out the meal by tossing in some cooked shrimp or sausage. “It’s so easy, and it definitely feels like more than the sum of its parts,” says McFadden. “You can make [the sauce] in the same time it takes pasta to cook.”
Embrace the softer side
Pureed veggies might conjure baby food or decadent creamed spinach, but breaking out your food processor is a great way to make a wholesome meal for all ages. In “Pure & Healthy: Healthy Indian Vegetarian Cuisine” (Roli Books), out March 31, co-authors Vidhu Mittal and Radhika Karle offer up a recipe for fresh-tasting, garlic-flavored spinach. Cook the leafy greens in a covered pan over medium heat for a few minutes, then coarsely puree them using the pulse setting on your food processor. To season the dish, toast some garlic (that has been minced or ground into a paste) and freshly ground spices on the stove for a minute or two in oil (Mittal and Karle suggest rice bran oil because of its neutral taste, high smoking point and good fats, but olive oil would also do the trick) and pour over the spinach when it’s ready to serve. The puree is great over rice, with crusty bread or on its own. “It has a robust earthy flavor of spinach while retaining the freshness and fragrance of green leaves,” says Mittal.
Meanwhile, Abra Berens, author of “Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables” (Chronicle Books), loves to add pureed squash to sandwiches to up the veggie quotient. “You kind of replace the mustard and mayonnaise [with the puree],” she says.
Get raw
Surprise! Many wintry veggies actually taste great uncooked. Berens suggests cutting celery root into matchsticks and adding them to a salad. “It adds crunch and texture,” says Berens, who advises doing the same with “ribbons” of raw squash made with a vegetable peeler — no specialty kitchen gadgets required — or finely chopped beets.
Another great raw preparation, recommended by Fox, is a visually stunning, plant-based “carpaccio.” Very thinly slice turnips, rutabaga, kohlrabi or radishes and arrange them on a plate. Dress the vegetables lightly with olive oil, lemon juice and good salt.
“It’s supereasy, and it looks beautiful,” says Fox.
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January 21, 2020 at 12:51AM
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5 inspiring ways to eat your veggies this winter - New York Post
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