Restaurateur Donnette Hansen’s century-old hunting lodge is unique for its log construction, vertiginous views into a wild green gully and landscaping that includes producing honeybee hives and a citrus grove. The atmospherics would be beside the point if the food weren’t so good. Chef Mark Schmidt brings a smart Texas feel to the wild-game-slanted menu, thanks to hits such as elk chops with enchiladas, chicken-fried venison or Friday’s limited-edition game burgers, made with the week’s precious trimmings. Marc Borel’s wine list always entertains. Lately pastry chef Taylor Brashier is stepping forth with smashing brunchtime bread baskets and interesting desserts, including her bay-leaf-scented crème brûlée and her arresting house-made “Oreos” filled with blueberry buttercream and salted caramel. Hospitality by a tight team of veteran staff makes it all feel like home.
WHAT TO ORDER: Rabbit rillettes; young greens and gorgonzola salad; grilled elk chop with root vegetable enchiladas; the brunch menu’s braised short rib Benedict with jalapeño Hollandaise; lunchtime’s chicken-fried venison with black-pepper gravy.
PRO TIP: Go casual or solo in the cozy bar; or home-style for weekly Sunday Suppers.
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Entree price: $$$-$$$$
Where: 2011 Ella
Phone: 713-861-8666
Website: rainbow-lodge.com
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https://www.houstonchronicle.com/entertainment/top-100-restaurants/article/Top-100-Houston-Restaurant-2019-Rainbow-Lodge-14556509.php 2019-10-25 01:07:39Z
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