"Mother of God" may seem like a strange name for breadsticks.
But it makes sense if you know where the new restaurant Parlor on 7th is located. It's just a few blocks away from Covington's Mutter Gottes Catholic Church, that beautiful Italian Renaissance Revival church that is not only a landmark but gives the neighborhood its name.
So go ahead and say it, "I'll have the Mother of God breadsticks, please." Because they're a really great appetizer. Made to share, but I can see myself eating all three of these with no help. One is stuffed with pulled pork and cheese, one with pepperoni and cheese, and one with smoked turkey and cheese. They have that fresh-out-of-the-oven baked-good seductive aroma and texture. They come with dipping sauces that seem beside the point.
In several ways, Covington is inspiration for the restaurant. Its menu revolves around beer, Kentucky, the greater south, German food and sausages, with a little bit of Italian. That sounds unfocused, but actually it just describes Covington. It also reflects the family background of chef Michael Schieman.
Most of the menu is hearty and with big flavors. Parlor is in the former Alto Pizzeria space, so the cooking is done mostly in pizza deck ovens. "It's amazing what we can do with cast iron in a 650-degree oven," said Schieman. Braxton's Taproom is next door, and much of the menu goes well with beer.
It doesn't have a lot in the way of atmosphere; one open room, lots of windows, TVs, a bar and some bar-height seating. You can also order from a kiosk in the brewery next door.
I can't imagine drinking anything but beer with the hanky-panky dip, the other appetizer we shared. I assume it was invented by Velveeta, but it's almost a folk regional specialty in Greater Cincinnati. It looks pretty bad and sounds trashy, but only because it's made with Velveeta, which is melted with sausage. The way the fake cheese melts and is creamy and smooth in the mouth is what makes it good. Here, instead of the mixture being spread on cocktail rye slices, it's served with a nice salted rye toast so you can spread it or dip it yourself. It feels like a guilty pleasure, but definitely a pleasure.
The sausages are made by Wassler's meats. There's one very spicy mett, served in a long bun, with sauerkraut that's seen a hot skillet, and some pickles, a beer-required dish. There was also a good turkey Reuben.
We didn't set out on purpose to try all the sauerkraut dishes, but it kept showing up. It's in the Bavarian ribs. The kraut and pork ribs are braised together for a few good hours, then the ribs are browned in the oven. The meat is soft and tender, with some crisp parts, but it's not the smoky, saucy bbq ribs that are most familiar.
Chicken thighs are also beautifully tender, with plenty of flavor. They are apparently cooked sous-vide and then seared. They're topped with a pistachio pesto, which would have been plenty to turn it into a dish. But there's another, quite sweet honey sriracha sauce that's added a little too enthusiastically, along with dried cherries. Too sweet.
A hot brown is a good version of the Louisville classic. It's not pretty; it's all browned to the same color. But the toast, turkey, bacon and Mornay sauce meld together in one delicious and rich over-the-top mess
At lunch, they have a solid deal: a mix and match with half-sandwiches, salads, soup, with a drink included for $10. I had a Cuban done right and a cup of downright delicious blackeyed pea soup – I don't know why it tasted so good, but it's the recipe I would ask for.
We tried the campfire cookie, which is made in Schieman's late mother's Kitchen Aid, served with milk, and it's a true home-like, satisfying ending. There's also a bread pudding, but we went for a special listed on the supplemental menu. It was a sundae, with caramel sauce and homemade fire and ice pickles. It was ... oddly OK.
Parlor on 7th
★★★ (three stars)
Where: 43 W. Seventh St., Covington
When: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday
Prices: Appetizers: $8-12; sandwiches and entrees $9-$16
Meatless choices: Buffalo cauliflower or Brussels sprouts, beer cheese and pretzels, salad, portabella melt
Reservations: not taken
Miscellaneous: Accessible to disabled, order kiosk in next-door Braxton taproom.
Phone: 859-993-4700
Website: www.parloronseventh.com
Poor ★ Fair ★★ Good ★★★ Excellent ★★★★ Extraordinary ★★★★★
https://www.cincinnati.com/story/entertainment/dining/pollys-reviews/2019/11/13/parlor-7th-next-braxton-taproom-pure-covington-restaurant/2518569001/ 2019-11-13 02:14:00Z
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